Must have been a really big herring . . .

I’ve been contemplating an overcoat for years, but the high cost and low priority have kept me from pursuing anything. Perhaps more importantly, the right cloth remained elusive. Then I took another trip to Naples this spring and Mariano Rubinacci showed me this vintage herringbone tweed.

Search over, wallet open.

Each segment of the herringbone pattern is more than twice the diameter of a euro coin–about five centimeters, or two inches, in width. Mariano tells me the cloth is 50 to 60 years old and somewhere around 18 ounces. Other than a similar piece in grey, it’s the last coat’s length available. I’d begun to think true large-scale herringbone overcoatings only existed in Apparel Arts illustrations and my imagination.

Cloth selected, it came down to discussing design–which was quite a bit more involved.

The overcoat I’ve had in mind is somewhat of a chimera: a military-style greatcoat with a storm collar, downward-pointing lapels, framed patch pockets, martingale half-belt, and a front that can be buttoned all the way up to the collar. The sleeves will have substantial cuffs, about 10 centimeters wide. Per usual Rubinacci practice, the sleeves will be set-in like shirt sleeves and the long center vent will be pleated over a buttoning closure. A detachable fur collar may or may not happen . . .

I understand that woolly tweed is not the traditional cloth for a greatcoat. In keeping with its military background, a grey or dark blue worsted overcoating is typical. But the tweed is a crucial element here. The ultimate goal is to capture the air of a military garment, without appearing costume. A tweed greatcoat won’t ever be mistaken for army surplus.

Anyway, I think you can be more eccentric with an overcoat than a suit. Proper overcoats are rare these days (at least in Manhattan), so there’s not much of an anchoring orthodoxy anymore.

Nonetheless, there is some true risk here, as I’ve really pushed Mariano outside his comfort zone. The above decades-old overcoat was brought out as a reference point for me. While, it’s not entirely off-base, but it is really more of a straightforward polo coat. Not what I’m looking for. Amongst other key changes, I’ve asked for the buttons to narrow in width toward the waist, creating a subtle ‘V’ configuration. This will create much wider lapels, but that’s okay by me.

 The plaid fabrics pictured represent the different wool lining choices available. While I’m not sure I need the added warmth, the middle cloth in brown and blue plaid looked too good with the herringbone tweed to pass up. Anyway, adding some color–even if only internally–nudges the coat a little bit further away from military uniform.

I don’t expect a fitting until this fall or winter, with delivery in January. The drawings above give some idea of what the overcoat should look like upon completion. The left and right illustrations are Mariano’s; the middle one is my take. Their rudimentary nature indicates just how much a client risks with the bespoke process. I’m only 51% sure of what the final coat will look like, and much of it will be a real surprise (hopefully pleasant). Let it never be said I don’t follow my own advice to trust your tailor.

Stay tuned. I’ll certainly keep you posted. In the mean time, would someone mind educating me on fur?

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